27 January, Waiau River, Clifden
I’ll start this story a few days earlier when we went out and bought a new car for the family. We test drove a Toyota Camry, Honda Accord Euro, and a Mazda 6. Now I honestly can’t say anything bad about any of the cars we tested. The Camry was a nice smooth drive, very comfortable, and masses of space for the family. The Honda made me feel like a businessman, again a nice ride, with fantastic comfort throughout the car, not as big as the Camry, but plenty big enough for the wife and kids. The Mazda however blew me away, the same size as the Accord but with a Tardis like boot for the kids … err I mean groceries and camping gear and stuff. What really got me however was just how much fun it is to drive, the 15 minute test drive we had was awesome, I totally understand “Zoom-zoom” now. Also of the 3 cars, it was the cheapest, and the salesman made it even cheaper with a 3 year mechanical warranty thrown in for good measure. I totally recommend the Mazda 6 if you are in the market for a mid-sized family car.
So with a new car, one must embark on a first journey in order to get to know ones new car, become one with the mechano-beast you now own. Thus I decided I would take the kids to the place I caught my first trout 25 years earlier under the guidance of my grandfather, the once mighty Waiau River at the Clifden suspension bridge called out to me to share this joy with my kids. So after dropping Mum off at work, the kids and I set sail for Clifden, a good 90 minute drive west along the southern scenic route from Invercargill. The drive out there was everything I wanted from the car, power on demand, smoothness personified (like me after a few beers), and almost no road noise due to the kids singing along to Clutch “BANG BANG BANG … VAMONOOSE VAMONOOSE!!!” I was in heaven.
We arrive at Clifden, a little deafer than when we left home, with the sun beating down on all and sundry in a typical Southland style. I will adamantly stand by the fact that although the temperature isn’t as high as other parts of the world, the feeling you get from the sun is beyond anything else. Might have something to do with being closer to that hole in the sky or something … who knows? Anyway, we cover ourselves in sunscreen, everyone dons a hat, my son puts on the Export Gold cuban fedora I got free with a 24 pack of beer and I notice the old tourists in their campervan look at us funny as an 8-year old walks past sporting the latest in beer fashions, old prudes, bet they were English and are still whinging about it to someone who doesn’t want to hear anymore.
We start wandering down to the river, we are halfway down the track when my daughter decides she needs to go to the toilet, “Sorry sweetheart, there aren’t any toilets here, go behind that bush there”.
“But Daddy, I need to do poooooos”
“Ummm … no one will see you behind the bush, you’ll be right sweetie”
“It’s OK, I’ll wait til we get home”
Meanwhile the young fella has bolted off ahead with rod in hand looking for water, my daughter and I catch up to find him casting at the very spot I caught my first fish all those years ago. I began thinking if I’d have as much trouble getting him away from the river as my grandfather and father did when we were here…
“Just one more cast Dad”
“Just one more”
“This is the last one”
“Righto, as soon as I reel this in”
“Grandad, I’m snagged on something …”
“DAD!!! I CAUGHT A FISH!!! AND IT’S BIGGER THAN YOURS!!!!!”
My daughter and I sit down and have some sandwiches and fruit for lunch and I tell her the story of when Grandad and Dad bought me here when I was her age and I caught my first fish. That 5 pound monster, which was as long as I was tall (seriously, I’m searching my mothers house for the photo to prove it). She seems enthralled about this, and then asks me about the bridge and if we can drive over it. The Clifden Suspension bridge was in serious disrepair when I landed that trout and has undergone some serious restoration work since then due to it’s historical significance. It looks pretty cool, but there is no way in a frozen hell I’m gonna consider taking anything heavier than a pair of shoes across it. After explaining this to the girl, my son comes back sheepishly with a tangled line, I tell him to have some lunch and I’ll fis it up and try and catch something to take home … who knows, if I’m lucky I might get another tree.
After 20 minutes with this line I’m starting to think it’s time to get a new reel and line for this rod perhaps, I know it wasn’t expensive gear, but this is starting to get ridiculous. Anyways I wade through the shallow arm of the river, barely getting my ankles damp, and take up residence next to the main flow where the water is a bit deeper, by now it’s far to hot for any trout to be swimming around in the shallows, they will likely be chilling in the deeps playing hard to get.
With the proven success of the Thunderbug on the end of the line I start casting across the river hoping to lure a nice sized trout out from the depths for brunch. After 5 minutes with no interest I am jolted back to reality with the shrill cries of a distraught 5 year old …
“HE STOLE MY COOKIEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!”
“Didn’t I get you kids two cookies?”
“Yes”
“Did he take both of them?”
“No”
“Where’s the other one then?” I was clever and bought two identical cookietime cookies at the shop … at least I thought I was.
“In the bag”
“Then you have that”
“But that’s his”
“…”
With the dramas of stolen cookies sorted, I again have 2 happy kids looking for fancy rocks and playing around happily behind me, and occasionally asking to go home, while I lose myself in the serenity of the flowing waters in front of me. The Waiau today is merely a shadow of its former self, if the stories my granfather told me are to be believed at least. He told me that before the control dams for the Manapouri Power Station went in that the Waiau was more like a long waterfall than a river, apparently one of the fastest flowing rivers in the country, and as such also one of the most dangerous. Yet at the same time home to some of the freshest waters, and some bloody big fish. The bigger the risk, the better the reward I suppose.
After learning from my lapses in concentration the previous week, I was solely focused on my lure, the water here is clear enough to follow the lure most of the way through the water. But somehow I was taken by surprise when the trout latched onto it, I went through the motions and kept the line tight as the battle began, at least, I was hoping it would be a battle. My shouts had attracted the attention of the kids and they came running over to see what was going on, almost as if it was scripted the trout jumped as they arrived, he looked to be a good 3 or 4 pounds, and definitely a brown, the kids were excited, my day was already complete. The trout and I battled for several minutes until I had him on the beach, I removed the Thunderbug from his lip, and then the question – Do I kill him and take him home for dinner? or do I set an example for the kids and release him back to the waters?
“Can we keep him Dad?” says the girl.
“If we keep him we have to kill him.” I point out.
“I don’t want to kill him” she states.
“Neither do I” he agrees.
“So we will let him go home then.” I suggest to the two nodding heads.
For some reason this made me very proud, when I was their age I was a ruthless killer, anything I caught was killed, gutted and taken home to get freezer burn cause no one in the house actually liked trout. That was mostly true today still, I don’t actually like eating trout, my wife doesn’t like it either, and as such the kids have never tried it, therefore most of what I catch is released. I didn’t have the SLR camera set up, and didn’t really want to keep the trout stressed any longer, so I told the kids to come and touch him and see what he feels like, and then gently released him back to the river. He didn’t hang around either, a couple of flicks of his tail and he was gone into the depths again.
By now it was starting to get pretty fucking hot, the sun was bearing straight down on us and there was bugger all shelter about, so I decided we’d get in the car and head home the long way and grab an ice cream somewhere. We had two choices, go home the way we came, or go via Manapouri just for shits and giggles. Had nothing else to do that day, so Manapouri it was, basically it was a 3 hour trip home instead of 90 minutes, but with a new car you are entitled to trips like this aren’t you?
In Manapouri we dropped into Pearl Harbour – Yeah I’m not gonna bother explaining this for those that don’t know – and attempted to feed the giant trout (you aren’t allowed to fish for) some bread. The problem with this is that the ducks and seagulls tend to get at the bread before the trout do, but still they came up close enough to the surface for the kids to see some real monster trout. Then it was off home, by the time we got to the upper reaches of the Oreti the wind was getting up a bit, and the kids were getting cranky, so I didn’t bother stopping to do any fishing.
When I did get home though, my Mother was there so I asked her kindly if she could babysit tomorrow night so I could get some time at the river myself, she was fine with that, all was set for me to reaquaint myself with the most frequented fishing spot of my teenage years – Mataura River, Coal Pit Road, Wyndham.

